ANTI-FREEZE...
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Your engine will only survive the summer heat and long distance travel if your cooling system is performing at it's optimum peak. Which means that your Anti-Freeze must be in good condition.
"How do I know if my Anti-Freeze is OK ? "
Well, first let's run through some cooling system basics.
There are many components that make up your cooling system.
There are many components that make up your cooling system.
- Antifreeze
- Radiator
- Belts
- Hoses
- Thermostat
- Water pump
- Pulleys
- Heater Core
In this series of articles, I will cover all components of the cooling system and they're purpose.
So lets start with Anti -Freeze.
With the technology of the car manufactures and the ever imposing lets make it better. Anti-Freeze has changed drastically. Today's engines require a certain type of coolant. While yesterdays cars only had one type of coolant today's cars have several different types. There's green, red, orange, and yellow. And if that's not enough to confuse you. Each one has a specific purpose for a specific vehicle. Unfortunately, identifying the type of coolant that is in the cooling system is not always easy. You can't go by color because it varies.
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Most conventional two-year antifreeze's for north American domestic vehicles is dyed green. But Saturn and some European makers also use green dye for their extended life coolants. Dex-Cool extended life coolant, which is used in new GM vehicles, is dyed orange to distinguish it from ordinary antifreeze. If intermixed with other types of antifreeze, the color may or may not change depending on the dosage. GM warns that intermixing extended life coolant with ordinary coolant reduces the coolant's life to that of the ordinary coolant
To add to the color confusion, some European and Korean coolants are dyed blue. Mercedes uses a yellow dye in its coolant. Toyota's new extended life coolant is dyed red. Intermix any of the above and its hard to tell what color the coolant may become.
The real difference between all these EG coolants is in the additive package. Traditional antifreeze formulas for domestic applications with aluminum radiators, cylinder heads or blocks contain a high level of silicates (which is not really needed in cast iron engines with copper/brass radiators). Silicates form a protective barrier on aluminum that protects the metal. The additives in European and Asian OEM antifreeze's, however, contain less silicates and rely mostly on borates to inhibit corrosion. European antifreeze's also contains no phosphates because hard water can react with phosphates to form calcium and magnesium sediments. The Asians use phosphates but no borates and low or no silicates because they say borates may actually add to the aluminum corrosion problem if the coolant is neglected.
The extended life coolants use an entirely different corrosion inhibiting chemistry that uses carboxylate organic acids instead of the silicates, phosphates or borates.
Below is a chart found at: http://www.peakantifreeze.com/
ANTI-Freeze Chart
GM / 1994 or Older/ Green
GM /1995 or Newer/ Orange
Chrysler / 2001 or Older/Green
Chrysler / 2002 or Newer / Orange
Ford / 2001 or Older / Green
Ford / 2002 or Newer / Yellow
Asian / All / Varies by OEM
European / All / Varies by OEM
Heavy Duty Diesel / All / Varies by OEM
* Remember that this is strictly a guide and you should check your owner's manual for specified antifreeze usage.*
***You Might Also Find The Chart Below Handy***
http://www.gates.com/downloads/download_common.cfm?file=MOTORCoolantFeature.pdf&folder=brochure
Now, That you know the types of coolant lets, look at why it fails.
Under-hood temperatures during summer driving often exceed 280 degrees F. Heat from within the cooling system and under the hood breaks down the coolant, hoses and belts, putting a strain on the water pump and clogging radiator and engine passages with impurities and debris that cause corrosion.
Another form of damage to the cooling system is caused by "electrolysis" A condition where electrical current is introduced into your engine via the electrical grounds or leaking electrical components. Electrolysis causes cooling system corrosion. When enough degradation occurs, any additional stress—such as low speed, high rpm driving (as when towing uphill)—may cause overheating.
To check your cooling systems condition you only need a few tools.
shop rags
anti-freeze tester (local hardware store or auto parts house)
small volt meter
After the engine has cooled...Remove the radiator cap with a rag or gloves and insert the antifreeze tester and squeeze bulb to fill up tester with coolant , the float will point to a temp your system is good for(depending on the climate where you reside will depend on your results. In Texas the degree's vary from about 32 degrees to below 20 degrees). If system isnot ok then I would suggest that you take it to a shop and have the cooling system flushed and refilled with the proper coolant. if it's ok ok then proceed with the next test.
Touch the tip of the black lead to the negative (-) AND side of the battery, negative-to-negative or positive-to-positive.
Install the second lead in the coolant touching the coolant only.
Read the DC and AC voltage with all electrical systems ( radio,a/c ete...) tuned off.
Voltage of zero to .3 is normal in a coolant of cast iron engine. Such an engine will be destroyed with time by .5 volts, and engine manufactures are reporting .15 volts will destroy an aluminum engine.
If it is .5 or higher, Have your vehicle's electrical system checked out and have the cooling system flushed..
CAUTION:
***NEVER OPEN A HOT RADIATOR***
Always keep antifreeze securely stored to protect yourself and others. Toxic materials such as lead and benzene might be found in automotive cooling systems. These can also be present in used antifreeze.
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For more information:
Click on the sites below.
American Association of Poison Control Centers
Animal Poison Control Center
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